Sunday 20 November 2016

36 Hours in Miami and Miami Beach




Photo

The Ball & Chain, a contemporary take on 1940s Cuban lounges, is a Little Havana bar popular with millennials and old-timers. CreditMoris Moreno for The New York Times

Every few years, the Miami area seems to reinvent itself. Sometimes the comeback stems from loss, as happened in the aftermath of Hurricane Andrew in 1992. And sometimes it is driven by visionary entrepreneurs, which is what’s happening now. Forget the one-dimensional image of the ’90s and early aughts, when the place was synonymous with sun worshiping and unbridled partying. You can still find that sort of revelry, but there is also a thriving cultural scene sustained by a robust community of visual artists, musicians, designers and chefs who are transforming Miami into a multifaceted destination with global appeal. This shift began to take shape with the arrival in 2002 of Art Basel, the Swiss-born art fair that draws the world’s haut monde to the Miami area every December (this year’s event is being held from Dec. 1 to 4). A decade later, in neighborhoods like South Beach, midtown and downtown, it’s almost impossible not to stumble upon art galleries, cultural institutions, architectural showpieces, stylish hotels and restaurants. Be mindful of the Zika-related travel advisory, available on the Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau website, still in place for two sections. 
  1. Friday

    1. BACKWATER APERITIF, 3 P.M.

    Downtown’s River District, a formerly desolate area of boatyards, loading docks and seafood grills, is one of several neighborhoods in the midst of redevelopment. These days, the banks of the Miami River are being populated by luxury condo towers, shopping arcades and riverside promenades. Get a sneak peek of this renaissance at the new River Yacht Club, a 40,000-square-foot dining and drinking destination featuring chic nautical interiors and dishes prepared by celebrity guest chefs. Pick a spot along the water, and watch visitors arrive by yacht. Not relaxed yet? Order the house caipirinha (cachaça, blueberries, lime and a splash of sparkling wine, $18). 

    2. EYE CANDY, 5 P.M.

    The Miami Design District is still partly under construction but already features an eye-catching collection of flagship stores for brands like Hermès, Dior, Loewe and Tom Ford. The Dior boutique, for example, was conceived by Barbarito Bancel Architectes, a French studio that draped the three-story building in white panels emulating the pleats of a skirt. Nearby are whimsical public sculptures and exhibition spaces such as the Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA Miami), dedicated to experimental works.
    image for Cardón y El Tirano
    At Cardón y El Tirano, you can enjoy crispy tostones, burnt hard llanero cheese, and salt-cured picanha steak. 
    CreditMoris Moreno for The New York Times

    3. ECLECTIC SOUNDS, 8 P.M. 

    Go to a show at the Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts, a modern, multitheater venue with performances by the Miami City Ballet and the Miami Symphony Orchestra. Built a decade ago by César Pelli, it still stands as South Florida’s leading arts center. For a more informal musical experience, head to Little Havana’s Ball & Chain to hear jazz vocalists, salsa bands and indie acts like Brazilian Girls. The bar, a contemporary take on 1940s Cuban lounges, is packed with a mix of millennials and old-timers ordering guayaba daiquiris ($12). 

    3. PAN-LATIN PALATE, 10 P.M.

    Since the 1950s, when Cubans began to arrive in large numbers, there has been a steady influx of immigrants from across the Hispanic world, particularly the Caribbean and South America. Their influence extends to the restaurant scene, with spots like Sugarcane incorporating flavors from Argentina, Peru and Mexico into a menu of international greatest hits. Locals flock to the leafy outdoor patio of this Midtown mainstay (about $40 for dinner, without drinks). At the new Cardón y El Tirano, the Venezuelan chef and owner Francisco Anton offers Latin fusion dishes like tostones with charred queso and seared picanha, a Brazilian beef cut. Housed in a strip mall in Little Havana, this homey spot can easily go unnoticed. (About $30 for dinner, without drinks.) 
  2. Photo

    Hanging gardens at the Pérez Art Museum Miami, designed by Herzog & de Meuron. CreditMoris Moreno for The New York Times
    Saturday

    5. COOL SWEAT, 9:30 A.M.

    Walking through the exuberantly landscaped gardens of the Standard Spa, on an islet just off Miami Beach, can transport you to faraway lands, priming you for relaxation. Continue to loosen up at the spa’s Turkish-style hammam ($150 for a day pass that provides access to the hotel’s facilities). This softly lit oasis has a 90-degree main room clad in tiered marble berths and features a cedar sauna, aromatherapy steam room, hydrotherapy stations and soaking tubs. Then fuel up at the chic waterfront restaurant, the Lido Bayside Grill, with poached eggs, multigrain toast and JoJo Tea or La Colombe coffee ($16). 

    6. PEDALS AND PAINTINGS, 11:30 A.M.

    Grab a bike at a Citi Bike station (there is one outside the Standard Spa) and pedal west along the Venetian Causeway, which crosses 11 man-made islands linked by bridges. You’ll see mansions surrounded by azure waters, as well as views of the downtown skyline. Park outside the Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM). Named for Jorge Pérez, a longtime trustee and benefactor, and designed by the Pritzker Prize-winning architects Herzog & de Meuron, the gallery has sweeping views of Biscayne Bay and is surrounded by hanging gardens by the French botanist Patrick Blanc. Aside from a collection of nearly 2,000 works by American and Latin American artists, PAMM presents works by artists like Doris Salcedo, a Colombian sculptor who famously cracked the floor of the Tate Modern in London for an exhibition. Admission, $16. 
    image for Standard Pool
    The pool at the Standard Hotel, overlooking Miami. 

    CreditMoris Moreno for The New York Times

    7. CARIBBEAN ENCLAVE, 1:30 P.M. 

    Little Haiti began to take its current shape in the late 1970s with the arrival of thousands of Haitian refugees. Start your tour at the Little Haiti Cultural Complex, which hosts Afro-Caribbean exhibitions and concerts. From Thursday to Saturday, the center hosts a Caribbean Marketplace, with a focus on arts and crafts. The area has attracted a handful of young entrepreneurs who’ve established shops like Sweat Records, a vinyl emporium that draws music geeks. Stop for lunch at the Buena Vista Deli,a corner bistro and bakery known for its renditions of French classics like quiche Lorraine and salade niçoise (about $15 for lunch).

    8. GRAFFITI SCENE, 4 P.M.

    Thanks in part to the efforts of the late Tony Goldman, an arts patron and businessman, a no man’s land scattered with abandoned warehouses became an open-air museum for street art in the Wynwood neighborhood. The center of the action is Wynwood Walls, a park enclosed by murals by some of the world’s best graffiti artists. All around are restaurants, art galleries and boutiques. Browse the classic sports cars and guitars at Walt Grace Vintage. Then grab a beer at a nearby microbrewery; J. Wakefield Brewing offers sour beers made with tropical fruits, like the award-winning Dragon Fruit Passion Fruit Berliner Weisse. (In September, Wynwood was declared Zika-free, following a concerted effort to eradicate mosquitoes.) 
    image for Ball & Chain
    A Pastelito daiquiri and Pastelitos de Guayaba at Ball & Chain in Little Havana. 

    CreditMoris Moreno for The New York Times

    9. TOP CHEF, 8 P.M.

    Brad Kilgore, named one of this year’s best new chefs by Food & Wine Magazine, is elevating Miami’s culinary standards at Alter. Recently, he served an interpretation of classic cassoulet, made with slow-cooked mahi mahi served alongside a smoked white bean mousse, rye bread and Serrano ham jus. Entrees are about $30. 

    10. DISCO, MAYBE, 11 P.M.

    Head to the Raleigh Hotel’s Martini Bar in South Beach, decked in mahogany and burgundy leather. Ask the barman for any variation of a classic martini, or a cocktail like the Triple Crown (Canadian whisky, lemon juice, falernum liqueur and peach bitters, $14). If velvet ropes and bottle service are your thing, go to high-octane Story, a sprawling nightclub that brings in D.J.s like David Guetta, Sasha and Cedric Gervais. 
  3. South Pointe Park in Miami Beach. CreditMoris Moreno for The New York Times
    Sunday

    11. SANDY MORNING, 10 A.M.

    Take a cue from locals and head to SoFi (South of Fifth Street), an uncrowded part of Miami Beach whose unofficial name, Brazilian Beach, points to the near absence of beachwear. Don’t worry, board shorts and one pieces are welcome. Stop at Pura Vida for smoothies and açai bowls. 

    12. FIRE AND GOLD, NOON

    Alan Faena, the Argentine real estate developer who rebuilt a swath of Buenos Aires’s waterfront, descended on Miami with even more ambitious plans. He is now overseeing the final stages of the Faena District, which spans six blocks along Collins Avenue and includes residential towers, a cultural center called the Faena Forum, and hotels, including the spectacular Faena Hotel Miami Beach, designed by the film director Baz Luhrmann and his wife, Catherine Martin, a costume and set designer. Behind the Faena Hotel lobby’s gold columns and allegoric murals, Los Fuegos, headed by the chef Francis Mallmann, offers on Sundays a traditional asado, or barbecue, on communal tables on a shady patio. The meal may include such dishes as beef empanadas, sweetbreads with chimichurri, and rib-eye ($75 prix fixe).

Sunday 19 June 2016

Welcome to Miami—the New Arts Capital of America


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Wynwood Mural, photo by María Renée Batlle Castillo
When a close friend of mine moved to Miami a decade ago, the initial reports were not good. Yes, the famous beaches, sunny skies, and spicy rhythms were welcome new perks to his lifestyle, but artistic and intellectual stimulation was apparently woefully lacking, at least to someone practiced in cultural capitals like Boston, New York, and San Francisco. 
Ten years on, my friend sings a much brighter tune, as an art explosion of almost Renaissance proportions has transformed Miami into one of the world’s hottest spots for art of all stripes, be it performances on the stages of concert halls and theaters, paintings on the walls of galleries, or foam figures floating on cappuccinos in coffee shops. Indeed, if it weren’t for the heat and glare, you might think you were in Brooklyn’s Bushwick neighborhood or the Mission District in San Francisco when strolling the muraled streets of Wynwood. 
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Knight Concert Hall at Adrienne Arsht Center, photo by Robin Hill
So what switched on the spigot? 
Ask Suzette Espinosa, vice president of communication at the Adrienne Arsht Center, and she points to years of grassroots activity. “Decades ago, our community leaders—both private and public—crafted a vision for what Miami’s cultural landscape could look like. Today it has come to fruition.” Katerina Wagner, founder and editor of the Miami Art Scene, agrees the change is not as sudden as it perhaps seems. “The scene recently exploded, but it didn’t happen overnight,” she explains, “but yes in recent years Miami’s art scene has gone to a whole new level.”
Everyone involved in the art scene gives a huge amount of credit to the Swiss-based Art Basel for helping ignite the revolution. Launched in 2002, the Miami Beach festival has grown dramatically over the years, nearly tripling its first-year attendance of 30,000 to 77,000 visitors in 2015 filtering through 267 galleries across Wynwood, Downtown, and Miami Beach to see $3 billion in art. 
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photo by Art Basel
Art Basel Global Director Marc Spiegler takes such accolades modestly, telling WLRN “A lot of people like to give our show credit for this, but I think the reality is that we came to a community where there was a lot of momentum in terms of the private collectors who were here. I wouldn’t say that we could take credit. I certainly think we’ve been part of a really exciting cultural dynamic.”
The Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts does stake a strong claim in helping to progenate the art scene. “When The Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts opened its doors 10 years ago, it ushered in a new cultural era in Miami,” Espinosa says. “The impact the Center has had on the city is immeasurable; it raised Miami’s profile within the performing arts world and made it a destination for arts and entertainment.”
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photo by John Zacherle
A 10-minute walk east of the Arsht Center, the Perez Art Museum is another Miami arts powerhouse. The museum’s $200-million building by Pritzker Prize-winning architects Herzog & de Meuron opened in 2013. Behind the thick hanging gardens and canopies of the three-story, glass-covered building are exhibits of painting, sculpture, and mixed media drawn from the lush cultural carpet of the region, melding expressions from the United States, Caribbean, and Latin America. Just be sure to save at least 20 minutes for watching the passing yachts and cruise ships from one of the outdoor Adirondack chairs on the bay-facing patio.
Across Biscayne Bay in South Beach, the New World Center owes a portion of its recognition to architect Frank Gehry, who designed the building. Opened in 2011, the center is home to the New World Symphony, which schools the best music students from around the world; indeed only 35 fellowships are awarded each year to about 1,500 applications. 
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In SoundScape Park at New World Center, photo by Jared
The steeply sloped seats of the horseshoe-shaped concert hall are particularly impressive, creating an intimacy with no seat beyond 13 rows from the stage, or as Gehry himself explained, “the audience is right in the music.” The focus on sounds extends to pergola- and flower-laden SoundScape Park, just outside the front door, where films are regularly projected on the 7,000-square-foot front wall of the building.
However, it’s Wynwood that gets the most name—and cool—recognition in Miami and abroad. The once derelict industrial district north of Downtown has seen wholesale redevelopment since 2009, with old warehouses, shuttered factories, and general wasteland turned into cafes, restaurants, galleries (indoor and out), fashion boutiques, event venues, and bars. “Wynwood is a major driving force of Miami’s local art community year round,” Wagner says, “and from Wynwood extends an invisible web connecting all the districts, artists, venues, organizations and businesses together.”
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Wynwood mural by Ahol Sniffs Glue — photo by Mike Dunphy
Looking ahead, the outpour of artistic energy appears to be far from ebbing. “I believe we have awakened a sleeping giant,” says Espinosa, “an undernourished desire for the quality cultural experiences.” Rising to meet the demand are new festivals like the Art Concept Miami—-a “waterfront fair in the round”—-and new venues like the Institute of Contemporary Art, set to open in 2017. The Arsht Center also plans to invest in the next generation of art lovers by expanding its arts education program to 25,000 more students each year by 2018.
Taken altogether, this may be the first time in Miami’s modern history when someone can visit and leave feeling inspired and fulfilled without ever having dipped a toe in the water.